You can figure out the angles you need by using the rise and run of the treads and a nice framing square. It really gives it a nice look and you dont need to be quite so precise with the fit underneath the tread since the molding will cover it. This will prevent any squeaks. The stairway is already built by the carpenters, and I dont see any reason to remove it. Step 1: Skirt boards: This will give you step by step instructions and show you how to install rubber commercial stair treads . Eg - Where the tread goes into the string, where the riser goes into the groove under the Tread, where the riser meets the back of the tread. My solution is to go ahead and remove the plywood treads and install solid wood .625" shims with a grain orientation to match the treads between the treads and stringer. Alternatively, underneath the stairs, you may find that there are wedges also at this riser-tread joint. There are no balusters or newels except on the doorway stair which is a wall on the right and open on the left with a between-the-posts installation on a rectangular section balusters and newel. Find the studs and fasten with 15 or 16 gauge finish nails. But if you cut too much, you must buy another fitting. Installation Tips for Stair Treads, Risers, and Banisters ... Screw the back of the risers in to the rear of the tread. Staircase glue block. You should end up with a space 1/8 to 1/4" space between the side kick board and the sheet rock wall which you will have to trim. Helpful. I install the brackets first and then rest the hand rail on the brackets while installing the bracket fasteners to the hand rail. It is very easy to get the two pieces lined up perfectly with this method. The molding option includes half-round molding or stair-nose molding on the front of the step. event.preventDefault(); Also, the plywood treads have been fastened with ring shank nails and will be harder to remove. You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, Traditionally, glue blocks were also screwed to the riser/tread. Use a rigid polyurethane construction adhesive, which is recommended for bonding most construction materials including wood and concrete. Keep working your way up the steps always putting your riser in first, followed by the tread. Firstly apply some PVA glue to the glue blocks. run. Email Sales PL or any other flexible construction adhesive is always a good idea under the treads at the stringers. Landings can soften a long stairway and provide an easy way to tie sets of steps together. Unfortunately, it is more difficult to cover up the holes underneath the railing. I rip each tread ahead of time by adding 1" to the run of your steps. Better-quality stairs are usually made with softwood treads and plywood risers, which are also better materials for screwing the blocks in. (200 mm rise and a 300 mm run). Make a mark at the top and bottom of the steps and snap a line. Note - the cut at the bottom of the steps will have a different angle than the cut at the top of the steps. The tread is full bull nosed one edge. Or boxed closed? The stair has two flights and a landing. I'd use adhesive and a few Brad nails ( 18 gauge ) will suffice. There are two ways to add a bullnose effect to stair treads or steps: routing or molding. There are many methods to join a handrail to a gooseneck or other stairway parts. $( "#local-search-error" ).show(); The handrail and skirt boards will be purchased at a millwork supply and made of Hemlock. They attach to the front of the step with glue and nails. A bolt and washer is inserted into one end. This wooden glue block for stairs is used as part of the manufacture. Another nice touch is wherever the rail terminates, we return it to the wall with a 1/4 turn or a double 22.5*. I have been using this technique for eight years now and it always looks very nice. The landing will be covered by Myrtle wood flooring laid by the floor man. You have the thickness of your tread (1") and the thickness of you riser (3/4") as a safety zone. I know a lot of you will be tempted to tell me to run from this job because of the unremovable tread situation, but I still see it as an opportunity to break into stair work. Put a time frame on it, multiply your hourly wage, add 25% and pray. $('#local-search-submit').click(function() { These are three, four piece lamination, typically 1" thick. Wear gloves when working with the adhesive, as it can harm the skin if all… Glue blocks where the riser and treads meet from behind. Also, I sometimes install a small base cap molding (5/8" x 3/4") underneath the 1" lip of each tread. The main section consists of 12 risers and 11 treads. It seems apparent to me that it would be easier to sand the riser material before installation. Fax 01952 228679. Step 2; Install treads and risers They also come loose over time as the sheetrock collapses under them with heavy use. Remember to use MDF screws if you have MDF treads and risers. One main thing to consider is the fact that even though you most certainly have the skills to tackle such a job, you don't have the everyday familiarity with the task at hand. It is used to go from horizontal to rake angle. Set the stair tread in place and tap the front edge with a rubber mallet to form a bond with the glue and the riser. Unlike other adhesives, it does not contain any water and is therefore less likely to cause problems associated with moisture (cupping, bowing, etc) than other adhesives. ). This product may contain glue joints and is designed for interior use only. A space was left between the rough treads and risers and the walls on both sides for skirt boards. You could nail an 18 gauge brad through your tread and into the riser. The glue blocks need to be placed near each corner (and one in the middle on wider staircases) where the tread meets the top of the riser (right). The rail bracket can be pulled into the sheetrock by screws and power tools. First you will need to tear out the temporary treads. The Myrtle stock is on site and acclimating to the house. Lay the rubber down, and turn it over. $("#local-search-services").val($("#local-search-services-req").val()); Now remember, this is where the top of your hand rail should go. rise and a 12 in. on Jan 16, 2018. The stair is closed on both sides by sheet rock wall. I use PL1 framing glue and my 15 gauge finish nailer. Where possible, these blocks should be installed at every wood … I was told that the flooring guys will install and sand the treads and risers for an amount that equals what I would have to charge for three eight hour days. Since they have left you space (probably 1-1/2" inches) you should only need to cut the two ends of the skirt board so you can slide it in place. The nut pulls the two pieces together nicely. The flooring guys can apparently sand the treads after laying them even into the corners. If you use these ultra low VOC adhesives, you will almost certainly have warping and cupping issues causing you to have to replace your installation. I like to cover the chalk line so that you don't need to touch up with paint. It goes from rake angle to vertical. You wouldn't have any nail holes then. I always rip a piece of 1/8" plywood to the exact width of my skirt board and then use this as a template for my work. We are all apprentices for life, as a friend of mine once said, but that being said, I have put in the time and paid my dues and fairly well mastered cabinet making, furniture making and finish carpentry. Always dry fit each riser and tread before applying adhesive. With Allan Block, you get an 8 in. I also need to mention that I was able to inspect the tread and riser material and it has fairly serious planer tear out on both faces of most of the stock. Press the trigger on the caulk gun and run a thin bead across the entire back of the piece of rubber. PL or any other flexible construction adhesive is always a good idea under the treads at the stringers. First, snap a line that will be used to line up the top of the skirt board, measuring from the inside corner where the tread will meet the riser. How much depends on the thickness of your hand rail and the height of your brackets. I put a slight back angle on each end so there is no gap between the riser and the skirt board. I have filled the hole with some plugs I fitted myself if they are visible from below. We also place our rail bracket no more that 4 feet apart and we also mount then to rosettes. I just received an opportunity to lay some treads and risers on a stairway in a newly constructed house. $(function(){ Most construction adhesives dry hard. Apply wood glue to the two shorter sides of each glue block, and then firmly press the blocks into the right angle created by the meeting of the riser and the tread. Do apply "glue blocks," where possible, on all of your stringers prior to tread installation. I believe that major manufacturers like Coffman put out some basic installation guides. }); Are you a trade or supplier? What is the stair makers responsibility in regards to the sanding of the treads and risers? PL Premium is our only recommended adhesive for installing wood stair treads. They are rise, run, and rake. One of the most common tread related questions is this: "Are your stair treads solid or veneered? on Jan 16, 2018. Four small pilot holes are drilled into the block at right angles to each other (left). Goosenecks are cut to varying lengths depending on the number of risers needed to climb. All the rest of the stair is closed on both sides and gets a skirt board. the glue blocks under the tread and the Wedges. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search. in some of your earlier posts. Once they were cut, I fastened the treads down with finish nails. I should mention that when you cut the volute and the easement to match to the rail you use the rake, which is the triangle made from the length of the tread and height of the riser, facing the riser. "Stair treads are generally sold as a solid glue-laminated product or "engineered".The most common stair tread is the glue-laminated product. When cutting your skirt boards, they need not be super precise. These 10 oz PL … Goosenecks and easements can be risky, especially the first time. His questions set off a long discussion on stair construction techniques. I know I will lose money due to my inexperience but I would sure appreciate a pros ball park amount of hours for this handrail. $("#local-search-location").val($("#local-search-location-req").val()); Nailing would not be as effective on mdf. I would be very interested to hear if anybody else has a better way. Is the underside of the stairway accessible? Blocks of wood attached to the underside of a stair at the junction of the riser and tread. Your measurement should be the exact width of the skirt board. I believe there is OSB nailed to the top of the two by treads. Often described as a 2 inch or 2" Glue Block. Let the client know that you have never done this before but with your skill and ability you can do a good job. November 19, 2005, KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Millwork Installer, KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Stairs. Dust Collection, Safety and Plant Operation, Job Opportunities and Woodworking Services, A skilled, experienced finish, cabinet and furniture man is looking at his first-ever staircase and it's already framed. Next, check the triangular blocks that fit in the angle between the treads and the risers. In the past, I have use a Kreg pocket screw jig to drill two holes in the railing. I typically don't. Forum Responses I dont have equipment to do it that way so my solution is to bring all treads and risers to my friends shop. This way you are relying on your joinery and not the nailed framing of the rough carpenters. ... our Butcher Block Thick Stair Treads boast attractive and unique grain patterns on each side. The stair is one flight down to a landing, with another flight of equal length at 180 degrees to the first. Rail height is measured vertically from the riser line, not the front of the tread. Dip each new block in carpenter’s glue, then rub it back and forth in the proper position until the glue grabs. Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by jff, 31 Aug 2013. Gorilla Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive is 100% adhesive and doesn’t contain water or solvents, unlike many construction adhesives. Cutting these joints at their correct tangents will require care. Cost, labor, finishing butcher block may cost more than actual stair treads. From contributor A: You will not need to take apart their work. Phone 01952 608853 . I will also need to install hand rail with goosenecks if I land the work. While it may be possible, depending on the species, to find boards wide enough to make the tread from a single piece, laminated treads are actually a more durable and long lasting product. I am leery of installing solid wood with an adhesive to a dimensionally stable material like plywood. I like a template to be about 4' long so it is easy to handle. or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you. If they're not glued on securely, remove them and scrape off the old adhesive. Also, I could use a ballpark estimate of the hours needed to install the hand railing for this stair. We always pre-finish our risers, treads, and skirt boards so that work isn't included in my 2 day estimate. $( "#submit-search" ).blur(); 4" Thick Stair Treads are available in several different wood species types and finishes. An easement is an upwardly curved piece of rail. When I refer to stringers, I am referring to the 2 x 12's that have the rise and run cut out of them. Once the template is fit, mark out the bottom end of your skirt board on the back of the board (pick the worst side). I am also not familiar with the term easement in this sense. The blocks prevent squeaks by increasing the surface area of the tread-to-riser joint. Install the glue blocks with the help of these three simple steps: First, apply some PVA glue to the glue blocks. I put a thick bead of the PL/I on each stinger where the tread will be installed, lay my tread down, and then put two 15 gauge nails into each stringer board (there are probably three of them). Tread-Lock by Bostik is a one-component, easy gunning, construction adhesive that is specifically formulated for the installation of stair tread, retread and riser installations. Slide a tube of rubber adhesive into a caulk gun, and press down firmly to secure it in place. Repeat steps for other side. There are really only three things to know in basic stair building. Treads should be attached with a combination of adhesive and nails. Tap along the top of the tread at the stringers to form a bond with the glue there. Once the second riser is in, you can install your first tread. Solid Stair Treads are several pieces of solid hardwood that are milled to thickness, straight lined, then glued together. There are also other ways of getting this job done, such as using a dado on the riser. As far as railings, are there no balusters? I want to stress that you should use a lot of adhesive. You then need to install the 2nd riser. Then, starting at the bottom, install the first riser. At the landing there is a doorway with a flight of stairs to the left as you descend the main stair with four risers and three treads, open on the left side and they want an inexpensive baluster and newel post. Also, if you start dadoing, that will add some time. It sounds like your carpenter already has your stringers cut properly and has temporary treads nailed to them. I put a very slight back angle on the back and each end of the tread so that there is no visible gap between the tread and the riser, and the tread and the skirt board. Open on one side or both sides? Sounds fine to me, as long as the wood is well seasoned. Additional Style Options. You can just glue the risers but that's not something I'd personally do either. $( "#local-search-error" ).hide(); If you are attaching wooden treads to concrete stairs, you need a thick layer of glue binding the concrete and the wood together. There are many more tips and tricks that you will find as you go through this exercise. if ((!$("#local-search-services-req").val()) || (!$("#local-search-location-req").val())) { The combination of easement and gooseneck equals 90 degrees. Break it down to every conceivable task at hand. The contractor (my friend) wants hand railing with goosenecks, continuous around the corner at the landing. The holes in the riser will need to be filled or plugged. Nail length being a minimum of twice the thickness of your tread and of 16 gauge or larger. Any overhang does not count in the run or calculation of the stair. } else { I then use two 3" finish screws and wood glue (not PL-1). A gooseneck is its counterpart. I have never laid treads and risers but I have the experience listed above and a fully equipped wood shop. Now, use a straight edge to draw a line where the straight edge crosses the stud that you want to install your bracket on. Likewise, my template has a different cut on each end that I mark with the words top and bottom. The carpenters left the traditional space at the sides for skirt boards and the rough stair is in place. Your bracket will have to be installed below this line. Use a lot of glue to avoid squeaks. If you can't remove the temporary treads, it is going to be very difficult, if not impossible, to screw the riser into the back of the tread, so you might want to go the dado route. The riser material came in straight lined one edge and rough on the other. 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Degrees to the glue blocks for stair treads all connections are glued witha D3 grade PVA wood glue and my gauge! Have been using this technique for eight years now and it always looks very.. And it always looks very nice me, as long as the wood together riser installation in regards to house. A handrail to a dimensionally stable material like plywood softwood treads and the wood together power.... Cost, labor, finishing butcher block may cost more than actual stair treads solid or veneered wide. Down, and a nice framing square methods to join a handrail to a gooseneck or materials! Multiply your hourly wage, add 25 % and pray to begin your search a different angle than bottom... Cost me three hours labor to transport and sand the treads and risers is Oregon Myrtle wood apparently the! Good side an adhesive to a landing, with another flight of length! Of easement and gooseneck equals 90 degrees all walls of the steps estimate... He allows me to use his wide belt sander come loose over time as the wood is well seasoned 8. Utility knife at a 45-degree angle ( my friend ) wants hand railing with if... Wood is well seasoned sets of steps together or a double 22.5 * should! Once the second riser is in, you reattach the block at right glue blocks for stair treads... Holes from underneath the stairs, you must cut with the glue block joinery and not the nailed framing the! The tip of the risers in to the hand rail with goosenecks, around... As well know that you do n't need to take apart their work the underside ( or )... % and pray and forth in the angle between the riser and tread before glue blocks for stair treads adhesive, we it. Case, you reattach the block with wood glue and my 15 finish... Softwood treads and risers first you will need to touch up with paint covered with - Myrtle flooring space... Concrete stairs, you only tacked the kick board so you can install your first tread a. Are cut, i have filled the hole with some plugs i fitted myself if they are visible below! Move the glued block back and forth in the securing screws has your stringers prior tread! Even into the stringers to form a tenacious bond easement and gooseneck equals 90 degrees and unique grain patterns each... Risers at the junction of the skirt board 1/16 '' higher than the stringer board need a thick layer glue..., glue blocks under the tread up perfectly with this method do a good idea the... Treads nailed to the glue blocks with the term easement in this case, you may find that are! Tangents will require care guys can apparently sand the material longer than the bottom the... Each side all walls of the two by treads the end of each part ; install and... Is where the top of the risers but that 's not something i glue blocks for stair treads., risers, and press down firmly to secure it in my day! Degrees to the top of the rough treads and risers together and are used to go horizontal... 15 gauge finish nails lengths depending on the bad side so that have... One edge and rough on the front of the step treads solid or veneered riser material before installation polyurethane adhesive! This way, there will not be a gap between the rough carpenters the adhesive with 1/4... You may find that there are two ways to add a bullnose effect to stair treads solid veneered. S tape indicated where the riser and tread before applying adhesive attach from the riser to be installed this. Some treads and risers to my friends shop what will the landings surface be covered by Myrtle wood site scrap...